The Rolex Submariner, a legendary diver's watch

In our previous article, we talked about a brand that stands out when it comes to watchmaking. If you ask those interested, whether novices or enthusiasts, young or older, they've all heard of Rolex.

The beginning of an icon

The Rolex Submariner is one of the most iconic watches in the world. It has existed for nearly 70 years and remains one of the most sought-after timepieces today. It is a classic dive watch that has been used by professional divers and adventurers alike.

It's also one of the most recognizable watches in the world, with its iconic bezel and Oyster bracelet. Whether you're looking for a classic dive watch or simply an elegant timepiece, the Rolex Submariner is an excellent choice. The iconic diver from the crown brand was first launched in 1953. Since its inception, it has been a model that has been constantly improved and refined, becoming one of the most popular and respected dive watches in the world. Often compared to the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms, also released in 1953, the first Submariner was based on Rolex's Turn-O-Graph model, which was already in production before the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms was launched. The Submariner model was shown to the public in Basel in 1954, and Blancpain's Fifty Fathom was launched to the general public between early and mid-1953. The Submariner was fully developed, but did not yet bear the Submariner name on the dial. It was only much later, once the legal naming issue was resolved, that the first watches bearing the Submariner name were put on the market.

The bezel on the early Submariner watches was a locking bezel: you first had to press it in to push it in before turning it, then release it to lock it in place.

A true diving tool

Designed to be a robust and reliable watch for professional divers, it boasts exceptional water resistance, capable of withstanding great depths for scuba diving, as well as a precise and dependable automatic movement. In addition to the locking bezel, it features a unidirectional rotating bezel, allowing divers to easily measure their underwater time.

To measure time, simply place the "bead" attached to the bezel marker at 12 o'clock opposite the minute hand during the dive. As the minutes pass, the bezel facilitates reading, with the numbers 10, 20, 30, 40, and 50 serving as dive time indicators.

But then why does the telescope only rotate in one direction?

For safety reasons. Indeed, during a deep dive, it is important to respect decompression stops and calculate the necessary times to avoid ascending too quickly. The fact that the bezel can only rotate in one direction (counter-clockwise) provides the diver with greater safety: if it were to rotate, it would not be able to indicate less time than the actual time spent underwater.

A watch in perpetual evolution

Over the years, the Submariner has undergone numerous evolutions and improvements. In 1954, it was equipped with a luminous dial, allowing divers to read the time even in low-light conditions. In 1956, the watch was updated with a more robust stainless steel case, enabling it to withstand even greater depths.

In 1967, the Submariner was fitted with a sapphire crystal, offering extreme scratch resistance and significantly improving the watch's durability. In 1988, a more precise automatic movement, the caliber 3135, was adopted. Once again, Rolex enhanced the watch's reliability and accuracy with this new movement.

Today, with a 41mm diameter, the Submariner remains one of the most popular and respected dive watches in the world. It stays true to its heritage as a robust and reliable timepiece for professional divers, while also offering an elegant and sophisticated style for everyday wear. It is a symbol of horological excellence and precision engineering, and will continue to be appreciated by watch enthusiasts worldwide for many years to come.

Available in several materials, including stainless steel, yellow gold, and white gold, it features various dial and bezel colors. Some have even acquired nicknames, such as “Kermit,” “Starbucks,” “Smurf,” and “Hulk.” In addition to its diving capabilities, the Submariner is also very versatile and can be worn every day. It pairs well with a variety of outfits, from casual to formal.

In summary, the Rolex Submariner is a robust, reliable, and elegant luxury watch suitable for diving activities and everyday wear. It is one of the most sought-after watches among luxury watch enthusiasts thanks to its timeless design and exceptional quality.

Author

Möbius