A look back at the GPHG 2023

On November 9th, the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève took place, celebrating the talent of watchmakers from around the world who submitted their creations to the scrutiny of the 27 jury members. For this 22nd edition, chaired by Nick Foulkes, renowned British journalist and author of The Impossible Collection of Watches, 19 prizes were awarded.

We decided to focus on several categories and, in particular, on the winners of those categories.

Category “Golden Needle”

This is the flagship category of the GPHG. The winner is awarded for the best timepiece presented throughout the entire competition and the most representative of the watchmaking industry as a whole. This year, Audemars Piguet and its “Code 11.59 by Audemars Piguet Ultra-Complication Universelle RD#4” replace the Swiss MB&F.

The watchmakers known for the Royal Oak offer here a model paying homage to the complex pocket watches they have been crafting for nearly a century, based on a model launched in 2019, the “Code 11.59”. The result lives up to expectations from this manufacturer: a watch in a rose gold case, with a well-balanced cream dial, and above all, boasting no fewer than 23 complications in a thickness of less than 15.6mm.

Among the complications integrated into the Calibre 1000, which comprises 1100 components and required seven years of development, is a rather rare one: the "Grande and Petite Sonnerie" complication, a musical feature. To explain for those less familiar, the "Grande Sonnerie" chimes on the hour and quarter-hour, while the "Petite Sonnerie" chimes only on the hour.

Furthermore, the watchmakers have enhanced this complication by adding a secret case back to this exceptional piece, allowing the acoustics of the chime to be amplified and this splendid caliber to be observed.

Category “Small Needle”

In this category, the British watchmaker Christopher Ward was awarded the prize for its Bel Canto, demonstrating its ability to create exceptional timepieces within a relatively limited budget. This limited edition model, of which only 300 pieces were made, features a complication similar to the winner of the "Golden Hands" category.

Indeed, the FS01 movement features a complication called “Sonnerie au Passage” (Striking on the Passing Hour). It works simply: the movement is equipped with a hammer that strikes a bell every sixty minutes, chiming the hours. To amplify the chime of this complication, the case is made of titanium, which is less dense than steel, and the entire internal architecture has been designed with this in mind.

In addition to this nice complication, the British company Christopher Ward also offers a modern dial with a subdial at 12 o'clock that seems to float, and at 6 o'clock the "Song on Passage" complication is observed with the precision of a red detail on the dial which makes it more lively.

In the "Petite Aiguille" category, the winner is awarded a prize for a model priced between approximately CHF 4,000 and CHF 10,000. This particular model is available for pre-order on Christopher Ward's website for CHF 3,350. For those interested in new watches, Seconde Vintage is a micro-brand that's rapidly gaining popularity and should definitely be kept an eye on.

Category “Watchmaking Revelation”

In the “Watchmaking Revelation” category, if you're a regular reader, you already know the winner. Indeed, the winner, succeeding independent watchmaker Sylvain Pinaud and his splendid “Origine,” is none other than Simon Brette with his “Chronomètre Artisans.” The first timepiece limited to 12 models per year, which showcases the work of 12 artisans, each a specialist in their field, has been rewarded, and rightly so in our opinion.

The competition was fierce, as the "Horological Revelation" category included such luminaries as Parmiagiani Fleurier, Ferdinand Berthoud, and Xhevdet Rexhepi. But it was the 5N red gold dial created by Yasmina Anti that took the crown.

Indeed, what makes this watch special is its focus on the artisans who crafted it. The number 12 mentioned earlier is significant, representing the number of exceptional craftspeople who worked on the model. This collaboration has been a resounding success, and the well-deserved award is the fruit of their labor. It's worth noting that this is the first watch bearing the "Simon Brette" name, and it has already been recognized by industry professionals—a high bar indeed, but one that bodes well for the future!

Category “Audacity”

The Audacity category recognizes Alcée, a French company founded by Alcée Monfort, a passionate craftswoman with an impressive resume. Her portfolio includes numerous prestigious names such as Hermès, Cartier, and Tag Heuer. The company was established in 2021 with the aim of selling DIY clock kits.

The first art object consists of 233 quality components, with the tools necessary for the construction of the clock as well as educational support provided by master watchmaker Thierry Ducret.

The model awarded this year at the Grand Prix d'Horlogerie de Genève follows in the same tradition. Moreover, almost all 233 components were produced in the Jura region. In addition to the assembly process, which is quite innovative in the industry, the timepiece was designed to be passed down through generations. This breath of fresh air is appreciated, and it was certainly rewarded this year!

Category “Craft Watch Award”

This category recognizes the excellence of craftsmanship showcased in exceptional timepieces. This year's winner is Piaget with its Altiplano Métiers d'Art - Undulata. It's clear that Piaget's Altiplano is a prize magnet. This year, the watchmaker distinguishes itself by winning a prize that is more poetic than technical with its Undulata. Blending jewelry and haute horlogerie while drawing inspiration from nature, the piece is magnificent.

Housed in a white gold case set with diamonds, the watch features a mesmerizing blue and green dial. Iridescent colors and varied textures adorn the dial. Indeed, thanks to the expert eye of Rose Saneuil, the artisans have incorporated layers of wood, straw, and leather. The dial is positioned at 7 o'clock, and a tourbillon, set at 2 o'clock, is adorned with the Piaget "P." No detail has been overlooked, from the diamond-set crown to the sumptuous blue crocodile strap.

We hope you enjoyed this presentation of the winners in the 5 chosen categories and feel free to tell us on our various social networks which models this year impressed you.