Vacheron Constantin 222, a resurrected watchmaking icon

To celebrate its 270th anniversary, Vacheron Constantin made a grand statement by announcing the re-release of the iconic 222 in steel. This timepiece, which had already made its triumphant return in yellow gold in 2022, is thus given a new lease on life in a more accessible version that remains true to the original spirit of the 1977 model. Let us immerse you once again in the fascinating history of this sporty-chic icon, from its creation to its triumphant rebirth, by way of a mysterious hiatus.

Genesis of a Legend: The Dawn of the 1970s

Let's go back to the 1970s, an era marked by the emergence of a new watchmaking genre: the sporty-chic steel watch. This phenomenon, born from evolving tastes and lifestyles, reflected the desire for a more relaxed elegance, capable of adapting to sporting activities and the demands of everyday life. Audemars Piguet led the way in 1972 with the Royal Oak, closely followed by Patek Philippe and its Nautilus in 1976. It was in this vibrant context, in 1977, that Vacheron Constantin, the oldest watch manufacturer in the world still in continuous operation, unveiled its own interpretation of this emerging trend: the 222, a watch that would not only define its era but also inspire the future Overseas collection.

Created to celebrate the brand's 222nd anniversary, the 222 is the work of the young designer Jörg Hysek, then only 24 years old. Contrary to popular belief, Gérald Genta, the father of the Royal Oak and the Nautilus, was not involved in its design. Nevertheless, a certain aesthetic lineage between these three icons cannot be denied, particularly in the integration of the bracelet into the case and the use of steel as a noble material. It is fascinating to observe how these three brands, each with its own distinct identity, were able to interpret the spirit of the times to create watches that would become essential references.

The 222 was an immediate success in Italy, a country renowned for its sense of style and refinement. This early success confirmed the watch's potential and contributed to its international renown.

A Timeless Design: Elegance and Functionality

The 222 stands out with its unique and instantly recognizable design. Its tonneau-shaped case, slim, fluted bezel, integrated hexagonal link bracelet, and the iconic Maltese cross at 5 o'clock on the case create a perfect harmony of elegance and sportiness. This design, both bold and refined, is a true statement of intent: "No, we're not late to the party—we arrived exactly when we wanted to." The Maltese cross, a symbol of Vacheron Constantin since the 19th century, represents the eight beatitudes and embodies the values ​​of precision, reliability, and craftsmanship so dear to the manufacture.

Initially available in a 37mm version, nicknamed "Jumbo," the 222 was later offered in 34mm and 24mm sizes, in steel, yellow gold, white gold, and two-tone versions, with polished or gem-set finishes. The dials, generally blue or anthracite, feature applied baton hour markers and luminescent hands. The 222 is a watch that is both robust and refined, designed to accompany its owner in all situations, from the office to social events and sporting activities. Its monobloc case, equipped with a screw-down bezel, provided water resistance up to 120 meters.

The 222 is now considered one of the founding members of the very exclusive club of "sport-chic" luxury watches, a category that has had and continues to have a considerable impact on the history of watchmaking.

An Exceptional Beating Heart: The Calibre 1121 and its Successor

At the heart of the original 222 beat the caliber 1121, an ultra-thin automatic movement developed by Jaeger-LeCoultre in 1967. This movement, also used by Audemars Piguet for the Royal Oak as the 2120/21 and by Patek Philippe for the Nautilus as the 28-255, is renowned for its reliability and precision. At just 3.05 mm thick, it allowed the 222 to achieve remarkable slimness, despite the presence of an automatic rotor. Interestingly, Jaeger-LeCoultre produced this movement as an "ébauche" (a rough movement) that the aforementioned companies could then integrate into their watches. The caliber 1121 is a true marvel of microtechnology, a testament to the watchmaking expertise of Swiss manufacturers. It is considered one of the thinnest automatic movements with a solid rotor ever created.

The new 222, meanwhile, is powered by the in-house caliber 2455/2, a movement that, while not defined by its era, offers enhanced performance and reliability. Beating at a frequency of 28,800 vibrations per hour and featuring 27 jewels, this automatic movement has an 18-karat gold rotor adorned with the "222" logo. At 3.6 mm thick, it is slightly thicker than the caliber 1121, resulting in a 0.95 mm increase in the case height of the new 222. The caliber 2455/2 is also certified by the Geneva Seal, a guarantee of exceptional quality and finishing.

Disappearance and Rebirth: The Return of an Icon

Despite its innovative design and the quality of its movement, the 222 was withdrawn from the Vacheron Constantin catalog in 1984, after only seven years of production. The reasons for this decision remain unclear, but it can be assumed that the 222, ahead of its time, may not have achieved the expected commercial success at a time when classic watches still dominated the market. Produced in limited numbers, with approximately 500 examples in steel, 150 in yellow gold, and fewer than 100 in a two-tone steel and gold version, the 222 has become an extremely rare and sought-after piece for collectors. The 222 thus joins the pantheon of icons that disappeared too soon, contributing to the construction of its myth. For many years, it remained the overlooked luxury sport-chic watch of the 1970s.

In 2022, to everyone's surprise, Vacheron Constantin announced the grand return of the 222 to its Historiques collection, a collection dedicated to reinterpreting the brand's iconic models. This reissue, faithful to the spirit of the original model, is offered in a single 37mm diameter version in 3N yellow gold. The case, integrated bracelet, and gold dial are virtually identical to those of the 1977 222. Vacheron Constantin clearly aimed to create a watch that resembled the original 222, but with improved adaptation, finishing, and construction.

However, several modifications have been made to improve the watch's comfort, aesthetics, and reliability. The original movement has been replaced with the more modern and efficient in-house caliber 2455/2, with an increased operating frequency from 2.75 Hz to 4 Hz. The bracelet has also been slightly redesigned to offer greater flexibility and enhanced comfort thanks to the central hexagonal links. The case has been refined, with more polished bevels and edges, particularly on the bezel elements, for a more elegant finish. Finally, the case back is now transparent, allowing a view of the movement and its oscillating weight decorated with the "222" logo. The date has been moved closer to the center of the dial thanks to a smaller movement, making it more legible. The new 222 also features a triple-blade folding clasp.

The reissue of the 222 was one of the most unexpected releases at Watches and Wonders 2022. Enthusiastically received by collectors and watch enthusiasts, it was also praised by numerous influencers. Priced at $69,000, this reissue was a pleasant surprise for fans of the brand. It demonstrates Vacheron Constantin's commitment to preserving its watchmaking heritage while embracing the current trend of sporty-chic watches. The reintroduction of the 222 may also have served as a fallback option for collectors seeking unavailable steel models.

And here is the news that all 222 enthusiasts have been eagerly awaiting: the re-release of this iconic model… in steel! Following the success of the yellow gold version released in 2022, Vacheron Constantin has decided to offer, at the beginning of this year, a more accessible version (even if that remains an understatement) and, it must be said, one more faithful to the original spirit of the 222 from 1977.

The 222 Today: A Timeless Heritage

The 222 is a timeless watch that transcends eras with elegance and boldness. Its iconic design, quality craftsmanship, and fascinating history make it an essential collector's item.

A timepiece that has long fascinated us. Its design, both classic and modern, possesses a rare elegance. We particularly appreciate the slimness of the case, the seamless integration of the bracelet, and the touch of sophistication added by the Maltese cross. The 222 is a watch with a soul, a story to tell. It bears witness to an era when Swiss watchmaking was at its zenith, and it continues to inspire designers today.

The re-release of this watch is excellent news for lovers of fine timepieces. It allows a new generation to discover this icon and appreciate it for its true worth. Vacheron Constantin has remained true to the spirit of the original model while making subtle improvements that make it even more desirable.